Pink Heartbreaker® Redbud

Pink Heartbreaker presents a compelling case for reconsidering what a small weeping tree can do in a residential landscape. This deciduous cultivar develops a strong weeping form with cascading branches that create an irregular, rambling silhouette—less tidy than its predecessor 'Lavender Twist' but arguably more characterful for it. Mature specimens reach as tall as you can support them, 4-8 ft. typically. The weeping habit is more pronounced than either 'Covey' (Lavender Twist) or 'Cascading Hearts', with branches that arch and cascade dramatically toward the ground while maintaining what growers describe as a stronger branching structure and more vigorous growth rate than other weeping redbuds.

The flowers are classic redbud—tiny, pea-like blooms in lavender-pink that appear in tight clusters directly on bare branches and even on mature trunks (a characteristic called cauliflory) in early to mid-spring before any hint of foliage. The effect of these bright blooms clinging to naked, twisting branches is stunning, particularly against the smoky gray bark. Following the floral display, heart-shaped leaves emerge with a distinctive red tint before maturing to a deep, rich green through summer. The foliage is broader and softer than many ornamental trees, typically 3 to 5 inches across with a pointed apex and entire margins. Fall color is a clear yellow, and after leaf drop the contorted, weeping branch structure provides sculptural winter interest. 

Landscape Value

Pink Heartbreaker functions beautifully as a specimen tree where its weeping form and spring floral display can serve as a focal point. Though it lacks the formal symmetry that some gardeners prefer, in a tidy garden it stands out due to its irregular branching habit. The less manicured appearance works particularly well in naturalistic settings, cottage gardens, or as an accent in mixed borders. It's also effective cascading over walls or planted on slopes where the weeping branches can be fully appreciated. The relatively compact mature size makes it appropriate for smaller residential properties, courtyards, and areas where overhead utilities or limited vertical space preclude larger trees.

Hardy in USDA zones 5 through 8 (some sources extend to zone 9), this cultivar performs best in full sun to partial shade with average, well-drained soil. Like all redbuds, it will not tolerate wet or poorly drained sites—specimens planted in areas with excessive irrigation or poor drainage will decline rapidly. The species is pH adaptable and moderately drought tolerant once established, though regular water during the first growing season is essential. Plant young specimens in their permanent locations and avoid root disturbance if possible. The tree grows quickly when young, and while it requires little maintenance, occasional pruning may be needed to remove dead wood or thin the canopy, particularly as the branches can break in strong winds due to their weeping habit. Prune immediately after flowering since flower buds are set on the previous year's wood.

History and Introduction

'Pink Heartbreaker' was discovered in 2002 among a group of Cercis canadensis seedlings growing in a cultivated area in Leesport, Pennsylvania by Donald Eaton. The discovery represents one of those fortuitous moments in horticulture where a chance seedling exhibits characteristics distinct enough to warrant propagation—in this case, a weeping form more vigorous and more strongly pendulous than the existing weeping cultivars. Eaton budded dormant leaf buds from the original plant onto redbud rootstock, producing over 20 initial clones. Buds taken from these clones were subsequently chip-budded to produce additional generations, and testing in both Pennsylvania and middle Tennessee confirmed that the cultivar came true to type through asexual propagation. U.S. Plant Patent PP23043 was issued on September 18, 2012, protecting this selection.

The cultivar emerged during a period of significant interest in weeping redbud forms, following the introduction of 'Covey' (Lavender Twist), which was discovered in 1991 in Westfield, New York and patented in 1998. 'Pink Heartbreaker' was specifically noted in its patent documentation as having more pronounced weeping than both 'Covey' and another weeping selection called 'Cascading Hearts', along with more vigorous growth—characteristics that have made it increasingly popular in the nursery trade as an alternative to the slower-growing Lavender Twist.

Wildlife and Ecological Value

As a native North American tree, eastern redbud provides significant ecological value that cultivars like 'Pink Heartbreaker' retain. The early spring flowers are an important nectar source for pollinators emerging after winter, including honeybees, bumblebees, and notably Habropoda laboriosa, a specialized native bee associated with members of the genus Cercis. The flowers also attract hummingbirds and butterflies. According to North Carolina State University Extension, redbud serves as a larval host plant for several butterfly species, providing essential food for caterpillars. The seed pods that develop following pollination provide food for songbirds including northern bobwhite quail, finches, and chickadees, and the seeds persist through winter when other food sources may be scarce. The flowers themselves are edible and have been used in salads, offering a mildly sweet flavor.

General care for any tree or shrub is easy, but like any living thing will require your attention. Please educate yourself and follow these simple rules.

Redbud Trees

Redbuds are an amazing and varied species of tree. General care and soil requirements are the same, although light and temperature requirements will differ based on cultivar. We sell our redbuds bare-root, we've sold thousands of redbuds this way with few problems, but they will be lightly rooted when you get them. This means your number one priority should be getting the roots established. Do this by planting early in the spring (or fall if you are zone 7a or south) and caring for the tree appropriately with slow release fertilizer and proper water (a moisture meter works wonders).

Most problems with redbuds come from poor site selection. Tougher than a dogwood, a redbud is a hardy tree with few problems when sited properly. It will tolerate full sun or shade can withstand a bit of drought, but will struggle with disease and lack of growth in poor soil.

Site Selection

Redbuds do prefer some shade, afternoon shade is best as morning sun decreases problems with powdery mildew, but most cultivars will grow in full sun without issue. They will not tolerate a site with standing water and prefer well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Soil composition is less important with redbuds than compaction, which happens from heavy equipment, vehicle traffic, mower traffic or even lots of foot traffic. Compacted soil is hard and lacks the natural sponge like structure that redbuds need to grow. A good rule of thumb is that if grass is struggling in an area then redbuds will too. Speaking of grass, grass should be removed in a 2-3 ft. radius around the redbud. Wood mulch should be applied and must be applied to qualify for a refund. Rock leads to extra heating and is as likely to damage your tree as protect it. Finally, redbuds can grow in costal areas, but the salts near the ocean will cause growth issues. They should not be grown south of the Florida pan handle unless your micro-climate specifically sustains existing populations of the tree.

Powdery Mildew

Problems with powdery mildew can occur and if they do we recommend increased airflow and making sure your watering regiment does not wet the leaves. In very wet years or climates this problem can be unavoidable, but try pruning back some of the branches or your redbud to increase airflow. Early spring and after flowering are both suitable times to prune - following directions for proper tree pruning.

Redbud Leaf Roller Caterpillars

Leaf roller caterpillars are small and zebra striped. They will fold, roll, or paste leaves together with silk to create a home. Once again established trees should not be a problem (see below for weeping redbuds), pruning back some of the leaves can improve airflow and access to predators. If you continue to be bothered by them, we suggest stepping back 10 ft. and seeing if they are still a problem. If they are, we prefer the long term solution of creating habitat for predators, birds and tiny parasitic wasps (they don't sting) over the use of pesticides that do more harm than good. Once again eliminating some of the leaf density will give them less high quality real estate, while making them easier for predators to reach. Peeling apart stuck leaves before they receive too much damage is also helpful. We don’t recommend pesticides as these will struggle to reach the leaf rollers caterpillars, simply making them more accessible to predators and using the 10 ft. rule (view the trees from 10 feet away) are the best approaches to dealing with this important food source for birds.

Leaf Cutter Bees

We get a lot of questions about perfectly cut circles and semicircles in redbuds. These are fascinating in their own right, and you may think tiny ancient aliens visited your tree at night. This is the work of the leaf-cutter bee, which is an important native pollinator that uses redbud leaves to make its nests. Once again, living with nature and the 10 ft. rule is the best approach here.

Weeping Redbuds

Weeping redbuds are great trees for small spaces, use them in a home landscape for their unique appearance and beautiful qualities. They must be trained to a certain height, so if purchased below the intended size, stake them and tie them with vinyl tape periodically to help them reach the desired size. At 3-4 in height they make an interesting alternative to shrubs, at 6-7 feet they are gorgeous weeping trees.

Powdery mildew and redbud leaf rollers can be a bigger problem for weeping redbuds due to the leaves layering on top of one another that create a lack of airflow and deny access to predators. We recommend periodic pruning of your weeping redbud if you experience either of these issues. Think of it as a haircut and take your time pruning only a small amount and smaller branches if possible. Spring and summer after flowering are both good times to prune.